Home Entertainment & Automation Services in Matthews, NC.
Home Entertainment & Automation Services in Matthews, NC.
Home audio and Video Services in Matthews, NC.  TV installation, Surround Sound, Home Entertainment Systems
Power Conditioning 101: Terms You Need to Know
 

The APC H15 is available at Custom Installation Services! Authorized APC Dealer In Charlotte & surrounding areas

The APC H15 is available at Custom Installation Services! Authorized APC Dealer In Charlotte & surrounding areas

Get to understand what goes into power conditioning as you prepare to add it to your home theater.

 You don’t want to have your favorite pieces of electronics gear wiped out during the next thunder and lighting storm, right? Or perhaps the next heat wave when your local electrical grid is going haywire?

Plus, we’re guessing you want everything to reach its optimum performance, so you can hear everything you should be hearing out of that new set of speakers. 

Power conditioning and protection products are not going to be the sexiest things in your equipment rack, but they could be among the most important relative to their job. They’ll ensure your gear receives clean electricity, and protect your products from potential damage.  And if you’re having a system installed by a custom electronics pro, you can be sure it will include some sort of power product. 

Because it’s an overlooked category, we asked our friends at SurgeX to give us a glossary of what to know. 

1. Alternating Current (AC) – Electric current that reverses direction periodically, usually many times per second. Used for power distribution because the AC voltage can easily be changed by a transformer. 

2. Ampere (Amp) – The practical meter-kilogram-second unit of electric current that is equivalent to a flow of one coulomb per second. 

3. Avalanche diode – A type of semiconductor component that is normally open circuit until the voltage increases to the point where the device turns on and conducts current. Similar in operation to MOVs but do not degrade with use. Very reliable as long as they are used strictly within their ratings. 

4. Direct current (DC) – Electric current which flows in one direction only through a circuit or equipment. The associated direct voltages, in contrast to alternating voltages, are of unchanging polarity. 

5. Brown Out – The IEEE (IEEE Std 1100-1999) recommends avoiding the use of ambiguous terms such as “Brown Out.” 

6. Capacitance – The property of a circuit element that permits it to store charge. A capacitor is an example of one such circuit element. A capacitor has high impedance at low frequencies and its impedance decreases as frequency increases, which allows it to differentiate between signal frequencies in applications such as crossover networks. 

7. Current – A measure of the amount of electrical charge (in Amps) transferred per unit time. It represents the flow of electrons through a conductive material. 

8. Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) – A general type of electric or magnetic interference which is transmitted by conduction or radiation and can be of a very wide frequency range. 

9. Ground – A conducting connection, whether intentional or accidental, by which an electric circuit or equipment is connected to the earth, or to some conducting body of relatively large extent that serves in place of the earth. 

10. Ground Contamination – The diversion of surge and noise currents to the ground wire, which contaminates the system ground. Surge voltages can couple noise to the ground, which can often enter an audio or video system by causing shield current to flow. 

11. Ground Loop – A potentially detrimental loop formed when two or more points in an electrical system that are nominally at ground potential are connected by a conducting path such that either or both points are not at the same ground potential. 

12. Hertz (Hz) – The unit of frequency in cycles per second. Used to characterize anything from AC power (50 or 60 Hertz) up to cellular phone radio frequencies (Giga-Hertz) 

13. Hospital Grade Receptacle – A receptacle which has a high-impact-resistant face and body, and a higher spring tension in the receptacle contacts. Identified by a green dot on the receptacle face. 

14. IEC – (A) IEC stands for the International Electrotechnical Commission: An “organization that prepares and publishes international standards for all electrical, electronic and related technologies.” (B) Commonly used to refer to one of the 13 power connectors described by specification IEC 60320. Most commonly refers to the C13 and C14 connectors used by most computers and many AC-powered electronic devices to connect the AC power. 

15. Impedance – A measure for the manner and degree a component resists the flow of electrical current if a given voltage is applied. It is denoted by the symbol Z and is measured in ohms. Impedance differs from simple resistance in that it takes into account possible phase offset. 

16. Joules – The standard unit of electrical energy (measured over time). One Joule is equivalent to the heat generated during one second when one Volt is driving one Amp around a circuit. 

17. Linear power supply – One type of power supply inside electronic equipment that converts the 120V AC to the DC required by the circuitry. A type of regulated power supply which utilizes a line-frequency transformer. Linear power supplies regulate their output by generating a higher voltage than needed at the output, then reducing it by converting some of the electrical power to heat. 

18. Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV) – A disc shaped device which is normally open circuit until the voltage increases to the point where the MOV turns on and conducts current. Originally developed to suppress arcing on relay contacts but used extensively in shunt-mode surge protectors. Have a limited lifetime. 

19. National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) – A US trade organization that develops standards for the electrical manufacturing industry. 

20. NRTL (Nationally Recognized Test Laboratory) – A government certified testing agency (such as MET Labs, Intertek/ETL, and TÜV) that tests and certifies equipment to established safety and test standards. Identical in function to UL certification. 

21. Parallel Connection – Devices connected together so that the same voltage appears across all devices. 

22. Radio Frequency Interference (RF) – Interference which is caused by radio signals. 

23. Root Mean Square (RMS) – The value of an AC voltage or current that delivers the equivalent power that a given DC voltage or current delivers. 

24. Sag – An RMS reduction in the AC voltage, at the power frequency, for durations from a half cycle to a few seconds. Note: The IEC terminology is dip. 

25. Series Connection – Devices connected together in a chain so that the same electric current passes through all devices. 

26. Shunt Connection – (Equivalent to Parallel Connection) 

27. Shunt Mode Surge Protector – A type of surge protector which uses MOVs, avalanche diodes or gas discharge tubes to conduct surge current to the neutral or ground wire. 

28. Spike – The IEEE (IEEE Std 1100-1999) recommends avoiding the use of ambiguous terms such as “Spike”. 

29. Suppression Voltage – The maximum peak voltage that will be seen across the active terminals of a suppressor at a specified waveform and source current. It is the remnant voltage the suppressor “lets through” to protected equipment. Products tested to the UL 1449 Standard are assigned a VPR (Voltage Protection Rating) in a range from 330V to 2500V, based upon the product’s suppression voltage. 

30. Surge (Transient) – The IEEE (IEEE Std 1100-1999) defines “surge” and “transient” to be analogous terms, as defined as: a subcycle disturbance in the AC waveform that is evidenced by a sharp, brief discontinuity of the waveform. 

31. Switch-Mode Power Supply – One type of power supply inside electronic equipment that converts the 120V AC to the DC required by the circuitry. A switch mode supply is smaller and lighter than a linear power supply because it switches the current on and off very fast to generate the DC using a small high-frequency transformer rather than a larger traditional line-frequency power transformer. 

32. Toroidal Transformer – A transformer that is constructed around a magnetic core in a toroidal, or donut shape. This geometry produces a more contained magnetic field, which leads to a more efficient and compact design. 

33. Transient – A subcycle disturbance in the AC waveform that is evidenced by a sharp, brief discontinuity of the waveform. May be of either polarity and may be additive to, or subtractive from, the nominal waveform. 

34. Under Voltage – When used to describe a specific type of long duration variation, refers to an RMS decrease in the AC voltage, at the power frequency, for a period of time greater than 1 min. 

35. Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) – An independent product safety certification organization that writes standards and tests products. Other NRTLs (Nationally Recognized Test Laboratories) may also perform product testing to ensure compliance with standards written by UL. 

36. Uninterruptable Power Supply/Source (UPS) – A device that provides battery backup power for continuous equipment operation when the electrical power fails, drops, or rises to an unacceptable voltage level. 

37. Volt Ampere (VA) – The standard unit of measurement of apparent electrical power, equal to the product of root-mean-square (RMS) voltage and RMS current. 

38. Watts – The standard unit of measurement of real electrical power, which factors in any phase differences between the voltage and current waveforms. 

by Robert Archer 

http://www.electronichouse.com/article/power_conditioning_101_terms_you_need_to_know/ 

Custom Installation Services, LLC – Charlotte and Boone NC’s Source For APC & Panamax Sales, Support & Installation! 

Posted in APC, Audio Systems, Flat Panel TV's, Line Conditioners, Media Rooms, Multi Room A/V, News, Panamax, technology | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment


Installing a Television Over a Fireplace
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Nothing has come up in local conversations with friends and family as much as what it takes to mount a flat panel television over a fireplace. Be it plasma or LCD TV, the big contention is that having a room with a centrally-focused fireplace results in a dilemma: Where do you put your flat panel TV if not above the fireplace? While some have stuck them off to one side or the other, either corner-mounted or placed within clunky built-ins, the best place, aesthetically-speaking is to mount the television over the top of the fireplace. This brings up a unique set of questions, concerns and choices, however, and we’ll attempt to address each and every one of these in this article and practical how-to guide. What we won’t necessarily address is the nitty gritty of how to use a spade bit to cut holes or how to cut and repair drywall. We’ll point you on the path but, lest we turn this into a boring step by step tutorial on how to renovate your home, you can look up the nitty gritty details on your own.

Should I Install My TV Over the Fireplace?

The first thing that we want to address is should you install your flat panel TV over your fireplace? It’s a good question – and one you should ask. There are a number of concerns with this particular installation and we recommend you go over a few basic factors:

How much use do you typically give your fireplace?If it receives ample use you really need to ensure that heat from the fireplace doesn’t reach excessive levels for anything mounted above it. Ensure that you have plenty of physical insulation so that wiring located behind the wall and adjacent to the chimney isn’t heated beyond manufacturer’s recommended levels. This is typically not an issue unless you have a problem with your chimney and – for better reasons than damaging a few cables – you should have that checked periodically.

How steep is the viewing angle?

Though we will almost always prefer a central location for a television as opposed to a corner position, there are mantels which are simply too high to support a television in certain seating arrangements. If you sit too close or are otherwise craning your neck at an excessive angle, then mounting a TV above the fireplace may not be such a hot idea (we were waiting for a chance to use that pun). In general, try to ensure that your primary viewing positions are at least 12 feet away from the TV. If you are closer than that, expect to strain your neck to see the picture (picture yourself in the front row of the movie theater). Some may find this acceptable while, for others, it will get old very quickly.

How difficult is it to run power to the location?

The answer to the question “Can I run power here” is almost always “yes” – and simply a matter of difficulty. For some, running power will be made possible via an attic access. For others, there will be greater repair required as some portion of a wall will need to be removed in order to provide side access for power to be run across to the proper location. If your fireplace is entirely brick, stone, or other material and does not have a framed-in wall above the mantel, then you may need to use an exposed decorative conduit or other means to successfully deliver power from one location to another. Still other options, like FlatWire’s pending 120VAC solution (which is pending UL approval) offer additional solutions.

The above should be considered well and all arrangements made before undergoing an install of this magnitude. In our specific test example we had attic access to run power and were also able to benefit from a fireplace that exists largely outside the house, providing us with a framed 2×4 stud wall section above the mantel. This makes running wire, both 120VAC and low voltage, far easier.

First Thing’s First: Plan Your Installation

We started by laying out the desired connections for our over-the-fireplace television. There were two things we wanted to accomplish – and neither was going to be without its challenges. First, we wanted the flat panel TV to be able to communicate with two separate locations. Secondly, we wanted to ensure there was an Ethernet connection available for streaming functions which are becoming increasingly available on televisions these days.

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For many, installing a television over a fireplace won’t involve this many connections, however you may want to consider future options, even if your current needs don’t require quite this level of flexibility. It is far easier to do everything up front, while you are running your cabling, than to go back in later and have to add additional wiring. The above diagram is merely what we chose to do in our particular instance, and your personal needs and imagination may vary with your room and requirements.

By way of description, you’ll note that the above diagram includes 5 basic connections:

-120VAC Power
You have to get power to your television. The safest way to do that is through the use of a system that allows you to plug a standard extension cord into a supply power socket which then takes that power and delivers it, via standard recessed receptacle, to your television. There are several companies that offer this, and we specify more on this below.

-Cat5e (Ethernet)
We feel it’s important to run a network connection to your television. There is so much going on in the area of streaming media services these days that it is highly unlikely that all but the most inexpensive TVs won’t have at least some level of streaming media or networking technology in the next few years. We chose to use a Monster Cable PowerNet 200/300 system that transmits ethernet over our home’s existing power lines. In this way, running power to a location behind the TV also gives me a source for connecting the television into my home network.

-HDMI and Component Video (YcbCr)
I chose to run both HDMI and component video from a remote A/V rack into the TV. This allows me to send that television duplicate content from my primary theater room, or simply use it in conjunction with some of the unique equipment available to me in that location (like my Xbox 360). The use of component video allows me to make use of the “faster” analogue video connection for gaming – a connection that doesn’t invoke tons of video lag as HDMI often results in. Because this particular run was close to 50 feet in length, I opted for a PureLink HDC Fiber Optic HDMI Cable System that is self-powered and handles full 1080p resolution.

-Wireless HDMI
This last connection was a choice I made based on the complexity of getting an HDMI cable from the television’s location above the fireplace to my corner-located in-room A/V equipment. Due to windows and the particular nature of the framing of that corner, it really made a lot of sense to simply utilize a wireless HDMI system. We tested out several systems, including one from Gefen that handles up to 1080i reliably via line-of-sight. That was a touchy system that didn’t deal well with interference or anyone physically coming between the transmitter and receiver. Add to that the fact that this particular model couldn’t be wall-mounted, and you’ll see why we switched to a Philips Wireless HDMI solution that would fit behind the actual display.

There are near endless possibilities for wiring up your television, and some will want to also run a separate coaxial line for antenna or cableTV if they don’t plan on using a set-top box as we intended. All of our HDMI and component video runs originated from an A/V receiver. This freed us up to send a virtually unlimited amount of sources to our TV. In the case of the remote A/V rack, it features a Denon AVR-5308, which has dual HDMI outputs and can simultaneously transmit the same signal across component video (if the source is analogue, that is). For the wireless HDMI source, we’re taking it from a Pioneer VSX-23TXH A/V receiver with dual HDMI outputs.

Mounting the TV and Running the Wiring

When choosing your flat panel wall mount it’s important to consider both your needs and the style of television you’ll be installing. While super thin mounts are in, they are often impossible to actually utilize. Most TVs still have connections that require some clearance behind the television, and we’ve seen several of this thin mounts absolutely FAIL when you attempt to get your TV close to the wall and still plug in the 120VAC power plug – not to mention begin to connect HDMI video cables. Thin can be sexy, but it’s a bear to actually make it work. Here is an example of a recent television we reviewed which features side-oriented inputs that don’t truly allow you to insert a cable into them without having it stick out the side of the display:

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Good luck trying to hide cables with this television

For above the fireplace I recommend, in fact I’d go so far as to say I insist on, a mount that offers at least 10 degrees of downward tilt. You’re going to need that given that the display is mounted in a location that is higher than your typical stand or built-in location. We spoke a little about distance earlier, and you’ll want to make sure you don’t install a flat panel above a fireplace unless you are at least 12 feet away. Even then, you want the TV to be angled down while viewing. Now, while you can spend hundreds of dollars on automatic powered mounts… the best values are those that offer basic tilt and give you some room to maneuver behind the television. There’s nothing better than a mount that feels rugged and offers you the ability to make connections to your television while it’s still mounted to the wall. For this reason, we selected the Sanus LT25 Tilting Wall Mount for 30″ – 60″ flat panel TVs ($199).

This wall mount is possibly the best basic tilting wall mounting systems I’ve used for larger flat panel televisions. For most people I don’t recommend tilting mounts, but for an installation up high, it’s a necessity and the Sanus offers some bang-up features that make this a very user-friendly mount:

Effortless tool-free tilting – you can tilt the TV by hand, and it retains enough tension to stay where you put it – even with a larger 55″ TV.

-A custom (ProSet™) height and leveling adjustment system which means you can mount it to the wall, install the TV, and then tweak it to ensure everything is perfectly level – after it’s installed. Perfection is no longer required for a level installation.

-A feature which holds the TV away from wall while you make your video and audio connections (ClickStand™).

-Open wall plate design that provides plenty of room for cable routing and wall plates

-Easy left and right shifting that can be done regardless of how the mount’s base needed to be positioned to line up to existing studs.

We’re not pushing Sanus but they’ve been around a while and really seem to know how to make a good mount. You can find these mounts online or at just about any electronics retailer. In either case, make sure the mount is easy to use and that it doesn’t require absolute perfection in order to get your TV installed, leveled, and connected. With a straight wall-mount scenario I’d say get a cheap sub-$100 wall mount, but with an over-fireplace installation, expect to pay a little more to get a product that’s more capable and flexible. Believe us, this is not the place you want to skimp.

Running Your Wires
When running your wires you need to pay attention to several factors to avoid making time-consuming errors. First of all, don’t be too fooled by all that space in the center of your wall mount. You have to use that area sparingly and keep in mind the location of your television connections and how the mount itself might interfere with cabling. For some installs of this nature, you’ll want to actually place your 120VAC and low voltage (HDMI, component vide, etc) connections above the mount in order to provide the most room to maneuver. Remember, your TV will typically angle downward, so if your connections are at the top they will stand the best chance of clearing all obstacles. In addition, your TV will typically be much larger than the mount, giving you additional wiggle room on installing wall plates and hiding your connections.

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The two primary devices visible on the wall behind our flat panel mount are the Monster PowerNet system and a PowerBridge Total Solution kit. We talked a little of the PowerNet above, and an added bonus is that it offers surge protection in addition to offering a great way to bring a wired network cable to your wall-mounted flat panel television. The PowerBridge is an excellent solution since it combines two of the necessities of an install such as this: power cabling and A/V connections. In this particular install, we ran HDMI and component video cables to the low voltage side of the PowerBridge, and connected the 120VAC inlet to our equipment closet, so that we could power the display off of our APC S15 UPS. You could also use one half of the PowerBridge product to simply take a feed off an existing outlet and run it to a plate behind the television mount. The advantage of using the whole system is that it doesn’t require an electrician and allows you to safely run the power cable without having any electricity present until you are completed and jump the power to it from an existing receptacle.

You can wire up the two components of the PowerBridge Total Solution system without any electricity present. Once everything is completed, you then add power to the system and test it using a standard voltmeter or circuit tester before plugging in your television. We find this system to be extremely popular and practical for homeowners and custom installers alike. The kit comes complete with both power/AV receptacles, two back boxes, and even a short extension cord for delivering power to the completed system. You just supply the 12/2 cable at whatever length you need to span the two connection points. The company is even rolling out a new patented connection system that removes the hassle of using a screwdriver and bending the 12 gage wiring to fit underneath a terminating screw. We were fortunate enough to test it out and verify that it indeed takes most of the work out of making an electrical connection. We also like that the low voltage half of the PowerBridge Total Solution system is Decora-compatible, so you can customize the low voltage models to your heart’s content.

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Speaking of low voltage – that’s where you’re going to get all of your audio and video signals, so it’s good to plan those out well. We chose to go with the PureLink HDC Fiber Optic HDMI Cable System. This is an excellent solution for runs like this and it’s self-powered, though you can also supply 5VDC if needed at the source side of the cable. Our sample installed very easily and ensured that our HDMI cable wouldn’t drop the ball when we sent it 1080p from our remotely-located AV equipment rack. This cable has male HDMI ends on both sides and we were able to simply plug it directly into the PowerBridge Total Solution wall plate alongside the component video cable. This gave us a nicely terminated point from which our wall-mounted television could pull its analogue and digital video connections.

For our wireless HDMI system, we initially took a look at the Gefen Wireless UWB HDMI system, but found it to be a tad cumbersome. In addition to that, this particular model could not be wall-mounted (the company does have a GefenTV Wireless for HDMI Extender 5GHz model that is wall-mountable). We opted for the Philips Wireless HDTV Link which allows up to 1080p/30 or 1080i/60 to be transmitted to a display. This was perfect for our needs, and the more streamlined system would fit nicely behind the display. If you decide to go with a wireless HDMI system, shop around and don’t expect it to be cheap.

It didn’t take long before everything was ready and we had all of our connections in place. While there was some significant attic work, it didn’t take more than a spade bit, cordless drill and some fire caulk to get everything situated nicely and run down the wall into position. Since our fireplace went through the lower half of our wall, our top half was pure joy to work in. We had ample space to position our electrical box and get everything dressed up and ready to go.

This final step was the most satisfying. The ease with which the Sanus LT25 made television mounting was made evident by the fact that I was able to lift a 55″ Vizio VF551XVT LED TV into place with my wife and a couple of small step ladders. The mount has clips and the trick is simply sliding the tilt-able brackets (which are fastened to the TV) down the wall until they catch. When the TV sat on the wall, we found that we could easily tilt it upwards, make our connections, and then tilt it downward so that it was correctly oriented to our seated position. When we got done with the heavy lifting we noticed that the TV was slightly crooked. Grabbing the included hex wrench, I quickly dialed in the height adjustment on the right bracket and the TV was perfectly level in no time. Had that adjustment not been there I would have had to remove the TV, remove the mount and start all over again. This is one handy feature!

Conclusion
It is no small thing to undertake a project like this and it’s best done with at least one dedicated helper throughout the entire process. The end result is a pleasing television that allows our main speakers to be positioned to either side of the TV, creating a much more effective sound stage and a greater flexibility in how we entertain guests in our living room. Mounting a television over the fireplace isn’t for everyone – but it sure drums up interest in those I converse with on a regular basis. With aesthetics playing a major role in marketing these days, it’s not surprising to see so many people aching to do something cool with that new flat panel they purchased with their tax refund. If you fit this description, then maybe it’s time to take the plunge and put that TV up top where it belongs!

by Clint DeBoer

http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/home-wiring-construction/installing-television-over-fireplace

Custom Installation Services, LLC – Charlotte and Boone NC’s Source For Samsung, Panasonic & Sharp 3D HDTV Sales, Support & Installation!  Let C.I.S. install your next HDTV!

Posted in 3D TV, Flat Panel TV's, Home Theater, Line Conditioners, Structured Wiring, technology | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment


Why a Computer UPS Can’t Protect Theaters

CIS-NC's Choice For APC and Panamax Line Conditioners!

CIS-NC's Choice For APC and Panamax Line Conditioners

Make sure to select a battery backup specifically designed for AV applications.

Power surges and transients occur in all 50 U.S. states. Blackouts, poorly filtered power, and dirty power can interrupt viewing, erase recordings and lose all of the system’s pre-sets. The recordings stored on your media server or DVR can be lost permanently if power is lost at just the wrong moment.

Satellite receivers and cable boxes can lockup, thereby interrupting service. Expensive light bulbs used in projectors and DLP TVs can be damaged when a blackout occurs.

The right battery backup can protect all of those troubles from happening. Many consumers look to their local mass retailer for one of those small, inexpensive battery backups designed for their home computer. While this might work out OK, there’s a good chance it simply won’t work.

Make sure to select a battery backup specifically designed for AV applications. Here are three reasons AV UPS (uninterruptible power supplies) systems offer better home theater protection.

Handling large components
One major difference is the ability to handle the unique power requirements of larger components. Network file servers and desktop computers typically have an in-rush current draw (the quick, but dramatic amount of current drawn when the device is turned on) of 60-80 Amps for a few milliseconds. Larger components can draw into the 100s of Amps (peak to peak) for several milliseconds on startup.

Computer UPS units are simply not designed to handle this large power draw. This can easily overwhelm the inverter of the UPS, causing it to shut down suddenly and unexpectedly. It is even quite possible for the UPS to be damaged by this overload condition. AV UPSs are designed to handle these large current draws common with big screen TVs and larger amplifiers.

Isolated Noise Filtration
Dedicated isolated noise filtration is another key aspect of AV equipment that is not typically available in computer UPS systems. Electrical Magnetic Interference (EMI) and Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) generally have little impact on computer gear unless its presence is extremely large (and/or the equipment is poorly shielded).  For this reason, traditional computer battery backup products contain very small EMI/RFI filters.

If severe enough, EMI/RFI can negatively impact sound and video quality. Properly designed filters, as found in higher-end AV power protection units, can reduce or eliminate this interference so that consumer’s receive the best home theater experience their system can provide. 

Too Noisy
Traditional computer UPS systems are too noisy, electrically and audibly, for AV equipment. Light emitting diodes (LED) and visual alarms that are typical of computer UPS systems can also detract from the viewing and listening experience. On the other hand, AV specific models are usually designed to be as quiet and visually unobtrusive as possible.

Audible alarms are “OFF” by default and LEDs can be dimmed or turned “OFF” altogether; similarly, liquid crystal displays (LCD) can be dimmed or turned “OFF”. AV cooling fans are micro-processor controlled with variable speed designed to run only when absolutely necessary.

Furthermore, the industrial design is ideal for placement in home entertainment centers (shelf or rackmount) or AV racks.  Also, the UPS batteries are accessible through the front panel so the unit does not need to be removed from the equipment stack.

A true AV-specific battery backup can be a great complement to your system. Knowing you are protected from all the dangers and hassles of today’s unpredictable power grid should give you peace of mind so you can enjoy your home theater experience without interruption.

by Patrick Donovan

http://www.electronichouse.com/article/why_a_computer_ups_cant_protect_theaters/

Custom Installation Services, LLC – Audio/Video Sales, Service and Installation in North Carolina and South Carolina

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